How to make automatic homemade beehives

How to make automatic homemade beehives
Photo by Danika Perkinson

Oscar Perone, send us an article about the construction of homemade hives that we are going to reproduce literally

The hive that I propose

It's possible to do beekeeperto without knowing anything about her, making our own material with scrap wood and populating our cheap hives with swarms that we will capture for free. The result will be a automatic hive that will only be opened to harvest.


This work was originally carried out to be published by the newspaper El Campero belonging to the Sustainable Local Development Program of the Ecumenical Center for Popular Education CEDEPO of Florencio Varela, here in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

That is why it is designed to convey what I propose in a medium written on paper, which is not the same as writing for people who know beekeeping or are interested in it, as you may be reading this through this medium.

I hope that this article can be a way to reach people, especially children, women and the elderly, who never imagined that they might be interested in working with bees, but who upon learning how easy it is to have and only open to harvest a hive, and populate it for free with a swarm captured in its environment, taking advantage of the fact that as in the field there is almost no place for them due to the ecological disaster that it suffers, the bees have taken refuge in populated areas, taking advantage of the holes that they find in these places, because in the countryside, due to lack of trees of sufficient size, they no longer find the ones they need to survive, not for nothing is an increasingly powerful and innovative activity called urban beekeeping underway in many countries .

The information that I offer below can be used as a way to interest them in wanting to have a hive like this as a hobby, and then take the opportunity, if they wish, to turn that hobby into the way of life that so many people need, and does not get.

It is for this reason that I beg you that if you know any person who may be useful or need this information, please send it to them; The same is true if you know a group that helps people or some written or spoken means of dissemination that would like to use this work for what it was created: Help.

So please help me to help, there is a pdf version of this document and another in .doc at your disposal, in a link at the bottom of this page.

I hope it works. Says so:

The automatic and economic hive

Beekeeper bees are disappearing all over the planet, this is due to treating them in an unnatural way, not respecting the way they build their nests and accommodate their reserves to spend the winter, stealing these and exchanging them for artificial foods that make them lose their ancestral good health, health is one of the most powerful of living beings, because they feed on the two foods that in combination are the most powerful on the planet: honey and pollen.

To help in the measure of my humble possibilities, in the necessary task of trying to save the bees, because I do not forget what Albert Einstein said:

"If bees disappeared from the Earth, man would have his years numbered: without bees there is no pollination, no grass, no animals, no men ..." Albert Einstein

I propose a technique, a way of having and enjoying hives that follow the design of the bees themselves, with which they return to nature, since they only open to harvest them, which would allow even vegans to consume honey, because in these hives, bees are treated with the utmost respect.

I provide this information so that anyone who needs to obtain additional inputs, or who wants to dedicate himself full time to it, can do so, only needing to receive the necessary information, have the commitment, the will to apply what little he must learn, and take material that is within your reach, and with the use of a simple hammer, saw and nails, build hives with which you will capture the wild swarms that are in your environment, since they have taken refuge due to the ecological disaster prevailing in the field, in the populated areas, it is not for nothing that an increasingly powerful and innovative activity called urban beekeeping is underway in many countries, which will make it very easy for you to populate your hives for free and without any effort, with the best bees you can get in the world; those with the best genetics: Those of a swarm.

This hive can be assembled with the wood that each person has on hand, such as wood from pallets, or pallets as they are called:

If you decide to buy wood, it is preferable to buy it without planing, which will be much cheaper, about 10 centimeters wide, but this is not mandatory or absolutely necessary, any measure of wood you have can adapt to this design, in which measurements are suggestions only.

What should be done is to manufacture our boxes with the internal measurements of the boxes used in beekeeping, so that if we get to get standard material, which is what it is called, there will be no problems when we put them on top of ours manufactured Well, they will coincide on the inside, which is the important thing, that they do not coincide on the outside has no importance at all.

Let's see a view of the proposed hive:

proposed hive

The hive that I propose

Let's see the first element with which this hive of natural and economic management forms, since they only open to harvest.

The element that you see below is the unit box with which the entire hive is formed, the design could not be simpler and stronger, these mini-risers are made, which is what we call them, with wood about 10 centimeters wide, In the photograph, the wood used is 2 centimeters thick, but anyone will do.

homemade beehive measures

The measures of the mini-hike

The indicated measurements: 374 millimeters in the narrowest part of the mini-rise and 465 millimeters in the longest part of it, are from the inner edges, that will ensure that we are manufacturing within the beekeeping standard in use in most of the countries and that our boxes will coincide on the inside with increases of those purchased.

I clarify here that the reason they are so low is so that they contain little honey, and therefore weigh little, which greatly facilitates the work of harvesting, and opens the possibility for these hives to be used profitably by children, women and the elderly, for whom it is designed and dedicated.

To have a hive, 16 mini-supers must be made.

Let's now see the other necessary element:


We call this element that replaces the use of frames in which the bees raise their honeycombs in a beekeeper's hive.

This element will also ensure natural and automatic control (we will not have to intervene at all) of varroa, a parasite that due to poor handling by beekeepers has become a destroyer and kills the colonies it parasites.


The measurements with which this element has to be manufactured are in the following photograph:


View of the enclosing grid with its carved combs

The rods that are in the previous photograph, must have in their lower part, a groove right in the center of the rod, which can be manufactured using a cutting element, such as a gouge:

working with gouge

In the photograph that follows, you can see how this task is done:

making beehive grid with formon

In this groove, if available, pure beeswax will be put, melting it, as can be seen in the following photographs:

Partial view of the grooves with their melted wax

The following is an overview of the including grid with the wax melted in the grooves:

General view of the grooves with their melted wax

These lines of beeswax will serve the swarm that enters their hive, as a guide to raise their combs, but if they do not have it, undoubtedly attracted by the immense gap that is provided, they will still lift their combs from the The best way they think is convenient, which is always the best, they are the ones who know beekeeping.

We will have to try to get the necessary wax from a trusted beekeeper who will sell it to us, because the one bought in beekeeping shops is useless, if you cannot get it, do not make the groove, leave the rod without it.

Let's see a diagram with the details of the rod and its groove with wax:

View of the rod of the including grid with the melted wax

The rods that the bees will use to raise combs to their liking, are made of the same material as the mini-supers and have a width of 24 millimeters, separated by spaces of 10 millimeters, and having, from center to center of each future honeycomb 34 millimeters which is the distance used between the centers of each honeycomb and honeycomb, the bees in their natural holes, as can be seen in the following photograph:

Detail of the including grid

To save you accounts, I offer you the measurements to which the centers of each honeycomb container rod will go. These measurements are from the inside edge of the rear sight:

    * 1 = 17 millimeters
    * 2 = 51 millimeters
    * 3 = 85 millimeters
    * 4 = 119 millimeters
    * 5 = 153 millimeters
    * 6 = 187 millimeters
    * 7 = 221 millimeters
    * 8 = 255 millimeters
    * 9 = 289 millimeters
    * 10 = 323 millimeters
    * 11 = 357 millimeters

To have a hive we must make six inclusive grids.

Let's see a view of the elements necessary to assemble our economic hive of automatic handling:

View of the necessary implements to assemble the hive

Let's see now how we make the floor of our hive:

Home beehive floor view

As can be seen, to make the floor, we will limit ourselves to placing boards covering the bottom of a mini-rise, to which, previously, we will have cut a slot one centimeter high and five centimeters long. , which will serve to allow the bees to enter and leave as they please.

I note that the first board nailed to the bottom, should protrude towards the side of the hive entrance, so that the bees can land comfortably when they return home.

Assembling the hive

Let's see now, in detail, how we will build our hive:

We will choose a place where our hive is safe from the strongest winds in the area and from the strongest suns, if possible.

I recommend that it be out of the sight of the neighbors if it is going to be placed in a populated area, it is the most prudent thing to do to avoid possible inconveniences.

Another thing that we must take precaution is to put it on a base that supports a lot of weight, because it weighs terribly when it is full.

The base should not be too high to enable harvesting work, and should be so that the sides of the hive step on it, in this way everything will be stronger.

We put on the chosen base, the mini-rise that contains the nailed floor, and on it, five more, on the one that was above, we place the first inclusive grid, we will choose the strongest one we have, since it will support the weight of the nest of breeding.

After assembling our nest, with the material in place so far, we will place two more mini-supers, and an inclusive grid on top of this pair.

These two mini-supers and their inclusive grid are left for the bees to keep reserves for them, it MUST NEVER BE HARVESTED, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.

Remember that it is very important:

From this inclusive grid down to the floor, it is the area of ​​the bees, a sacred area if you want to ensure that this hive maintains its extraordinary condition of not needing anyone to intervene.

From here up, you will put two mini-risers and an inclusive grid, always in pairs and in this way, until completing approximately one meter with sixty of stacked material, that is, counting from the floor, to the last inclusive grid.

To get your hive to have a roof, simply nail boards to the inclusive grid above, in order to cover everything, do not worry about the slots that may remain, you will learn that there is no one who takes better care of your house than bees.

From now on you will enjoy the benefits of having an automatic hive that does not need a beekeeper because it operates alone and you only have to open it to harvest it:

To achieve this, you can simply separate the elements using a fine wire with sufficient resistance and putting a piece of broomstick on each end to serve as a handle, you will insert it into the slots between each mini-lift and its partner and do it. pass as a saw, swinging between the hands, until the whole separates.

To get the bees to retreat, use smoke, cut the combs using a knife, and remove the bees that were in them, using a chicken or goose feather, whatever you can.

The pieces of honeycomb, wrap them in plastic sheets or cellophane, the best material you can get for this and they are ready to sell.

Make your merchandise count by making your customer understand that there is nothing better than honey in its original container, which ensures maximum hygiene and is a guarantee of quality, as this container is inimitable.

If you want to harvest fluid honey, grind the pieces of comb you have, put them in a tightly covered container and after a short time you will have the wax separated from the honey.

To grind the pieces of honeycomb you can use a meat grinder or something similar, if you do not get any of this, squeeze the combs between your hands.

At this point you may be wondering: and where do I get the bees?

Don't worry, they come alone! And they are of the best quality in the world!


Don't believe me


home hive

The hive that I propose, with its conformation

I remain at your disposal for any questions you wish to ask me.

Signed: Oscar Perone

Videos on how to make other types of hives

In January we saw how to make automatic homemade beehives. Today thanks to All tutorials, I find that Oscar Perone has also edited some videos about its construction.

So to complete the article I leave you here.

And a second video

a greeting

49 comments on "How to make automatic homemade beehives"





  2. The history of beekeeping put Langsroth on the way, this man designed the best hive to date and is based on the most logical, if a hive arms honeycombs of a measure that males are born, they eat the honey, the idea of the stamped wax is to maintain 720 hexagons, if there is less the diameter of each cell will be greater and males will be born, the only ones that work are the females that have their undeveloped ovary, so they do not lay eggs and the idea is that we have more than them, laying eggs is done only by the queen, sex is decided by the diameter of the cell hole that gives the pattern and the bees will feed the larva with the jelly that will give sex, that is already defined many years ago, if we do a fusion of honeycombs with queen excluders and we handle 10000 bees, the math will be 1 x 1 = 1 are 1 kg of honey x year, if we fuse 100000 bees then it is 10 x 10 = 100 kg, the union is strength, unite multiple combs in one with excluder increases production enormously Because of economy of scale, if we have 10 hives of 10000 each we will only have 10 kg of honey, a hive with a small pike can be defended, if we make it large, pillage and other undesirables enter, if we respect the increases and remove only the 4th The honeycomb will grow, it will be productive, 2 hikes are for breeding, 1 hike for reserve, the rest is useful for the owner of the apiary, I respect and congratulate every constructive idea and any idea that improves honey production and more than anything pollination, We all depend on it, understanding how the organization of a hive works is the beginning of construction and improvement, Langsroth did not leave much to invent, one of the best books written by him is the bible of the best beekeepers, where little is known The fact is with the management of hives of several queens that, with an excluder and newspaper in the middle, makes them merge, maintaining each queen with its own tiny entrance and exit, as well as a reservoir of honey pan de miel c omun, the smell once gnawed on the newspaper will be the same in the 2,3,4 or more fused colonies, the basic idea is to exchange honey x bees, and bees for honey, merge for honey production and defuse to produce bees, that's the way.

  3. Hello Carlos, according to the information you provide, it is possible that you are even more graphic as to how to multiply the production in this hive with the fusion of combs. I am new to this, I just saw the information on how to build a hive and I am interested in doing it in the best possible way (for the bees). Thanks in advance.

    Patricio silva

  4. You are very right in what you say about the hives in general, but in the exits they (the bees) seal the ones with the most entrances, leaving only one entrance and exit, to better defend the hive. Hence the saying house with two doors bad to save a greeting. Paco novice beekeeper.


  5. Respectfully, dear Carlos Koch, I believe that you have in your opinion a big error of appreciation, while if my knowledge does not fail me, the sex of the bees is not determined by the jelly. The queen has two oviducts, one has the spermatheca and the egg that comes out of this oviduct is fertilized when passing through the spermatheca and will be a female and the egg that comes out of the other oviduct that does not have spermatheca, is not fertilized, it is male . What determines the feeding of the female larva in the metamorphosis process is its development, if it is fed only with royal jelly, the female will develop fully and we will have a queen, but if its diet is a little royal jelly and a complement of honey and pollen, the female does not develop fully (atrophied female), and we will obtain an ovrera, in short ... a small clarification


    Carlos Garcia


  6. Respectfully, dear Carlos Koch, I believe that you have in your opinion a big error of appreciation, while if my knowledge does not fail me, the sex of the bees is not determined by the jelly. The queen has two oviducts, one has the spermatheca and the egg that comes out of this oviduct is fertilized when passing through the spermatheca and will be a female and the egg that comes out of the other oviduct that does not have spermatheca, is not fertilized, it is male . What determines the feeding of the female larva in the metamorphosis process is its development, if it is fed only with royal jelly, the female will develop fully and we will have a queen, but if its diet is a little royal jelly and a complement of honey and pollen, the female does not develop fully (atrophied female), and we will obtain an ovrera, in short ... a small clarification


    Carlos Garcia





















  7. The author explains that it is the closest thing to the natural, to the wild, it is not industrial.

    Well if a hotel in the almost natural style of bees,


  8. Hello friends, I have been working with species of bees for many years, the best production of sensible and environmentally-friendly honey for bees is permapiculture.In this way, we collaborate to save them from their disappearance since almost everything is stolen from them and since it is small and still a lot people do not know her language she has to tirelessly repeat her task thanks to the robbery that the man does ect a greeting from uruguay atee levin reyes


  9. Hello Carlos Koch, I hope I do not bother you with my concern, with what I have read you are a person sufficiently educated on the subject and I wanted to ask you about how to make the hive that Mr. Perone proposes, since I cannot find the answer in the questioned, and since That you mention it, I ask you: on the inclusive grid that is above the brood chamber, is there a queen excluder? That is, on the first inclusive grid from the bottom up. Thank you very much in advance and I extend the query to anyone who can help me about it.

  10. Hello, I need to answer a question, since I have read quite a few articles on the internet and I am presented with a question, does the proposed hive have a queen excluder under the inclusive grid that is on the brood chamber? Thanks to anyone who can contribute to my apprenticeship. Thanks to all who comment on the page, which is very interesting, for this if the internet is useful.

    Kind regards, Jorgelito de Santo Tomé Corrientes


  12. Did someone try to make the hive and was it successful? Another question, I have seemed to understand that the mini-braces are not nailed to each other, how is the hive supported? Or do the bees seal the joints and that is enough? , a hive of these dimensions is easy to overturn with little wind. Tomorrow I start making one. Thanks.

  13. Hello, I am looking for how to make the best hive for years I studied in a secondary school but the truth is that I don't even remember and I have a little place removed from the position I live in San Felipe and I would like to do this job growing honey I clarify I have no money so the project I liked oscar perone or another better one

  14. I am a new beekeeper and I have answers and questions:
    - I have seen a wild hive with only one entrance, and I suppose what has already been said about the defense against pillage, etc ... but I emphasize the importance of the landing ramp so that they can queue more comfortably.
    -the hive should be placed (as has already been said) in a slightly benthic place, but if there is no such place in your environment and the stability of the hive is doubted, it is possible to place tensioners.
    -No queen slusher is placed, which leads me to a question and possible answer:
    -The queen does not put on the hikes?
    -I suppose not because the brood chamber is so big that you don't need it, unlike a langstrot without a slusher.
    -Can the harvest be done at night?
    - I have heard that it is done at night with red light so as not to disturb them, taking advantage of the fact that the bees are heating the nest, so that they are not disturbed and the supers are empty.
    - in the stamped wax method the wax is changed from time to time because the queen hates the old wax and stops using it.
    -Does the wax age in the Perone hive?

  15. Hello, I was seeing here in this forum that no more has been said about the peroneal system, I am interested in this method of a new hive to see if it brings positive results to our economy mainly and to nature itself, I have seen many videos from different people and from different countries talking and teaching about the production of this new hive called the perone system, apparently it is very good but I do not know why I have not seen new videos, if there is a person who maintains perone style hives And according to him, they are giving good results but my question is, ..
    because there have been no more testimonies .. ??
    I really would like to know what the reality of this system is to know what to do about it ... greetings

  16. Thanks for the information about the perone system, but I want to know if there are good results adapting the langsthrot system to the perone system and if anyone has experience in this please what results did you get.
    Thank you

  17. The article is very interesting and I am very interested in having my apiary and I did not know how to do it since buying it is very expensive.
    from what I understood with these drawers my bees will not get sick and they will give a rich honey. thanks for the information I found what I was looking for.

  18. Hello Oscar
    many greetings and thanking you for this good article on "How to make automatic homemade beehives"
    it is very interesting and useful. Oscar, I want to know when should I get the honey from my hive after it arrives for the first time and then how often?
    Thank you very much and have a nice day

    My name is Jorge and I live in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic

  19. Hello I would like to have hives but I would like to make my drawers all the equipment but I do not help how to start I have several wild hives seen

  20. I was really impressed by the article, I immediately get to work to see what comes out, the only information I need is how far can bees fly to collect pollen? I will keep you informed, thank you very much in advance

  21. I found it very interesting, I already have the machine to cut the wood, believe me I am excited to go out and look for the pine wood pallets to start this hive, I tell you that the space I have is inside my apartment in front of the balcony , I plan to close with false walls of drywall and plaster, with a glass or plastic window to inspect the behavior without having to enter the hive and an entrance door, by the time of harvest., the space will be about 10mts square enough to start.

    I am from Venezuela, what would be the best month of the year to install the hive, is there some type of plant that I can place on the balcony and it attracts bees? regards,,

  22. Congratulations interesting your publication and I tell you that I am going to put into practice a thousand thanks.

  23. Hello, you have already made me doubt with your comments how many entries does the colemena need, am I going to send one? I need it not only for the honey my son is healing with apitherapy

  24. Thank you very much for all that I said. I am new to beekeeping and I decided on this method to install the two automatic hives. I think the permapicualture is excellent. I live in Buenos Aires and as they did not manage to make more hives for so many colonies and when these cold temperatures of almost 0 ° arrived like today many die. Is there something so that it won't happen again next winter? . And as for the harvest until the end of this summer they did nothing for me? . Is this so? Please help. Thank you .

  25. I would continue using frames, it is neither more nor less than two hikes or three for nest and many half hikes or quarter hikes, that is, a dadant to the beast, the problem of the decline of bees is not the hive, today for Today here the wild swarms have disappeared and it is because of the varroa and the varroa is relative to the position of the queen, plus more varroa position. If the hive gets sick you have to load it almost entirely, for example. Chicken plaster, when you remove honey you load the wax, the wax has to be renewed for health and to create larger or smaller bees, for each kg of wax 6 kg of honey is consumed, I have had hives with nest +4 or 5 hikes and half the nest is pollen, to handle livestock and others I think you could use cruadros. And the automatic without maintenance that is for the batteries, you have to treat, you have to manage the livestock. I have already tried pollination stations and if you are not there they will collapse, food will dry up, looting, etc. The small piquera, good if there is a shortage of food, the strong one slaughters you the smaller or weaker, it is unstoppable, if there is hunger the piquera does not stop them. The queen can lay both worker and drone eggs with the same cell, she chooses according to the stage that the honeydew has, or by swarming and uses the same stamped wax, apart from the varroa prefers drones to workers and many queens make a drone posture to counteract the varroa look around the vhs resistance. Another thing this hive does not serve for all climatic zones and at least it is not productive until the third year, I make a review there is a Basque friend of bees on YouTube natural beekeeping that would not be bad to see for those who want this of permaculture and I comment Something permaculture is good if not insecticides, if where we put our bees is a natural park or a wild area, the systems are not compatible in all places. Well thank you for letting me say something of what we have appreciated in the apiary. Greetings from a Uruguayan in Tarragona.

  26. so that it assembles balls with so many tangles there is a proven beekeeping all over the world and there is the perfect hive and it is the measure langstroth they do not stick ball I have thirty years of experience working langstroth and I have a lot to say about it greetings from Mexico

  27. Interesting and finally something of great importance only that I need to investigate more about the urbanized place where I live k have everything I need and above all to agree with neighbors ... Thank you for this article.

  28. I find it all very interesting, so if I have a question, it is how to make a queen excluder. Someone has the measurements or a page where to find it or if not, someone who knows how to make it home.

  29. I have a moral duty to warn that this hive has become irretrievably outdated, for more information write to my private email

    I leave you by copying it, a message that I will send in which I explain what I say above:

    Says so:

    »I tell you that in March 2014,
    from Peru, I have returned to
    live in Argentina, after three
    years of traveling in Spain and almost
    all of Latin America and I come back
    horrified by the speed in
    that pesticides have devastated
    the environments, to see how the
    agriculture of death that is
    runs everywhere, we go
    leaving without bees, without insects,
    without animals, without men, without
    biodiversity, without life in short.

    I have seen how in several countries
    hand pollinate the fruit, such as
    I have seen do with Lulo in the
    Neiva area in Colombia, and as
    there are very few powerful ones left
    swarms, as I have seen in several
    areas of Costa Rica, Chile and others
    Central and South American countries.

    I have seen how when there are swarms,
    the same ones are more and more
    small, less vigorous, less
    vital, less able to occupy
    the gigantic holes that
    we offered in the golden hive.

    I live from the tasks that I perform
    as a beekeeping consultant
    international giving conferences
    and courses and consulting
    personal to individuals and
    companies and institutions, -Such as
    I did very recently in Republic
    Dominican and Honduras-,
    and thanks to that I stay in
    communication with permapicultor @ s
    from many countries to which, for
    I usually know personally.

    That allows me to learn a lot and
    we have come to the conclusion that
    the bees no longer have the vigor that
    they had, they are no longer capable of
    occupy gigantic holes, it is for
    what we have made hives
    with smaller size, hives that
    we call transition, in the
    hope that with them we help
    the bees to recover and that, -en
    the future-, be able to return to
    need and occupy our hives
    of greater capacity.

    What happens now in many
    places with the hives that he proposed,
    is that it is difficult for them to be occupied
    with swarms, because they don't have
    ability to occupy and defend a
    hole so big.

    If they are populated with bees
    from standard hives,
    with populations stressed by the
    handling carried out by the
    conventional beekeepers, in the
    at best they occupy the nest,
    but most of the time not
    They go up to put honey in the area of

    This had me very concerned, but
    I have solved.

    I went back to nature, to observe
    wild nests, to ask the
    bees with humility to teach me
    How can I help solve what
    it happens to them, and I found the solution,
    an unexpected solution that demonstrates
    how wrong we were all
    that we have designed hives, how
    we were all away from what
    bees really need to be
    as good as they were during
    millions of years without intervention

    It's a beehive that I finished designing
    and conceptualize in Nicaragua and
    where in a course that I taught to a
    group of peasants, I asked them to
    help to test it and that, if so
    they wanted, they gave it a name for
    differentiate it from the previous ones.

    The name they chose was
    Nicarao cacique, national hero, chief
    of the resistance that the
    aborigines to be enslaved in the
    colony time.

    It is a hive that brings us even closer
    in the purpose of conducting beekeeping
    intervening in the hive the least
    possible. and of which we will not talk
    until we have no results
    documented, indisputable, although
    in my heart I recognize that it is
    a hive that needs no checking,
    well follow the principles that have followed
    bees for millions of years,
    facilitating what they have done during
    so long: Completely fill the
    hollow where they live with honey if it is
    that the season accompanies. »

  30. GOOD AFTERNOON, I want to ask if in this system, apart from the system of inclusive grids, it would not be good to place an excluding grid of QUEENS, at the bottom of the hive, leaving the brood, in two deep rises. Thank you


  32. The subject is very interesting, my questions are: at what distance from the house is it recommended to place the hive ??? … .How far can bees go to look for their food ???… .. how did you prevent it from tipping over since I see that you can't stand… anyway I want to know everything if there is any way how to get more information thanks


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